Criollo: King of Cacao

Four main varietals reign in the chocolate world: forastero, trinitario, nacional, and criollo. Each unique in their flavor, treatment, and durability, chocolatiers throughout the ages have used each of these to craft chocolate treats to reach their goals.

Originating in the Amazon basin, forastero was widely used in the by Spanish, Dutch, and Portuguese colonists and was carried throughout Africa and Asia. Hardier and easier to work with, it has been the most popular cacao variety and abounds in your local grocery store. If you have eaten a Hershey bar recently, you have enjoyed this simple variety.

Lesser known cacao varieties are making a comeback among luxury chocolatiers and enthusiasts. Wide debate has occurred over which is better: nacional or criollo.

Nacional was recently rediscovered in Ecuador in 2011, after being considered extinct at the beginning of the 21st century. Ecuadorian scientists collected samples from thousands of cacao trees and were able to determine that six were 100% nacional. Sparking hunts for more, groups were able to find trees that were over 100 years old. Extensive preservation work continues for this “heirloom” chocolate and we can’t deny that this is something special.

However, we can’t turn away from the common understanding that criollo is “food of the gods.” It’s fragile and difficult to cultivate (which lead to the birth of the criollo and forastero hybrid- trinitario). The rarity makes it all the more alluring for a chocolate enthusiast. Only 1% of the chocolate made around the world is using this variety. Considering each side in the debate, we nod our head to criollo, the king of chocolate. It’s fruitiness, rarity, complex flavor, and softness make it one of the best cacao varieties to work with and eat.